Nyange School Memorial & Traveling to Kabuye

Backpost from 7-30-11

Today my group and I travelled to Kabuye.  On the way, we stopped at the Nyange School were a planned attack occurred AFTER the initial genocide.  This school was a boarding school and was targeted because it taught forgiveness, reconciliation, and the idea that ethnicity was unimportant and all that mattered was that the students were all Rwandans.  The attackers entered the school after killing the night guard and entering different classrooms.  Six children died and many others were injured.  These students are seen as heroes in Rwanda.  This is because when the attackers came in they demanded that the Hutus and Tutsis separate.  They said no harm would come to the Hutus if they simply obeyed.  They did not.  No one moved; instead, they bravely stood up to the attackers and stated that there were no Tutsi and there were no Hutus there, only Rwandans.  Because of this, they lost their lives.  How brave these students were! 

I found this memorial to be very important because it showed that violence did not just stop after the 100 days.  It did continue and animosity did not just magically fade away.  It took a lot of effort, but this school was proof that forgiveness was/is possible.  It proves how necessary it is in order to move on and better the country as a whole.  As I walked into the classrooms I could see the lessons on the boards that they were all studying that night.  I saw desks with writings and carvings just like ones in the U.S.  It is funny how kids from all over love to deface desks at school! J There were neighbor children outside the windows of the classrooms waving to us and it really brought this memorial to life.  It made me hopeful and I left with a renewed sense of pride for the young men and women who did something that I hope I too would have been strong enough to do if put into that same position. 

Afterwards, we finished our traveling (holy long bus ride!) to Kabuye.  It was so interesting to see how the culture and language barriers seemed to melt away throughout the bus ride.  With a background stereo playing Rwandan and American pop songs, we began to realize we are not that different after all.    I loved that feeling of unity and hope that we seemed to have as we arrived at Centre Bethania. 

This place looked like it was straight out of a postcard.  Set atop the lake on a hill, I honestly never wanted to leave.  It was absolutely amazing!  The view was breathtaking.  I ended up rooming with Jean D’ark and Christina.  After an interesting bedding arrangement, we changed rooms and each had our own place.  Granted, we were missing a mosquito net, but before the end of the night it was put up.  Our neighbors weren’t so lucky at first.  The lack of beds, etc. proved to be almost too much for Mel, Erika and Joelle.  When one of the domestic workers (who spoke zero English) dropped a mattress on the floor and was ready to leave I couldn’t help but burst into laughter!  Luckily, one of the Rwandan Directors was walking by and remedied the situation.  A bed frame and mosquito net and sheets were delivered shortly after. 

Overall it was an amazing trip and I look forward to the next few days here in this little slice of Heaven.

Kigali Genocide Memorial and Commision for Prevention

Back-post from 7-29-11

It has finally hit me that I am not on vacation, that I am half way across the world and that I am in a culture that is very different than my own (yet also extremely similar… I know this is hard to comprehend, but if you were here you would definitely get it). 

Today we visited the National Commission Against Genocide and had a very productive discussion.  Following this, we traveled across town to the Kigali Genocide Memorial were we were able to explore both the inside and outside, alone.  We were given a map and an audio guide.  I started outside and kind of got lost.  I decided to then go inside and save the gardens and mass graves for afterwards.  I heard the history prior to the 1994 genocide and followed through to the 100 day massacres and then the years of rebuilding and reconciliation that followed to the present day.  I saw accompanying videos, pictures, and artifacts.  Traveling through this maze of a museum, I found myself feeling incredibly alone.  I felt as if all of the happiness in the world (and inside of me) was being sucked out.  Hearing the testimony of some survivors, reading the last words of those who perished, and seeing the tools used to slaughter them…. I felt as if I was losing hope in humanity.  Why did no one help these people?  Why did the world not intervene?  It is as if we all turned our heads in different directions to ensure that we did not see the carnage that was occurring before our eyes. 

I made a promise that I would not cry.  I promised myself I would be strong in memory of these brave and mainly innocent people.  I was doing so well… until I came to the room that had pictures of victims that had been provided by family members.  There were so many and this was just an incredibly small increment of victims.  I looked at every single picture that was hanging on the walls.  Men, women, children, elders, infants…. I looked into a glimpse of their lives, an earlier and happier time.  I stared into their eyes wondering why them?  I lost it.  I thought I had to view every picture.  I had to remember every face.  I couldn’t skip any because they all deserved to be recognized and the cruelties they endured can and should never be forgotten.  From there I walked into a room that had skulls and bones from various body parts displayed behind glass.  I could see the marks from bullets and machetes in the skulls.  I kept walking.  Next I walked into a room where some clothes were displayed along with a few personal effects.  An “I love Canada” t-shirt caught my eye and I immediately thought of my new friend Christina who is from Canada and absolutely is in love with her homeland.  I was just so overwhelmed.  I sat down watching a projector display the same testimonies over and over again on a far wall.  I was thinking so many things and had so many questions that I knew would never be answered.  No one can tell me why this happened, why no one helped, or why other genocides and human rights abuses are still occurring.  Every answer I receive is unsatisfactory and leaves a whole even deeper than before because I know that many people accept this situation and others like it as “life.”

So as I was sitting there…. Feeling utterly helpless and completely alone, Christina walks in.  She looks around.  We sit in silence re-watching the testimonies.  Before long we have fallen into each other in tears.  It was obvious at that point that the same emotions were running through as well.  We decided to trek ahead together.  The most intense was yet to come in the Children’s Room.  Life-size pictures were displayed of children, toddles, and infants.  Below the picture it included the child’s name and other info such as their best friend, favorite drink or food, favorite play item or sport.  It also included how they died (burned alive, banged against a wall, shot, chopped up, etc.), their last memory (seeing his mother brutally murdered), and last words (UNAMIR will come!).  It was heart breaking.  I could barely even move forward at this point. 

Christina and I slowly finished the memorial together, eventually meeting the rest of the group at the mass graves to pay our respects.  I tried to hide my tears behind my sunglasses, but Lowell noticed and placed his arm around me just like a father would to a small child.  It was so comforting and as I looked around I realized that our group was very unique, completely different, and a little crazy; however, we were here together.  We thought we were choosing Rwanda, but in reality Rwanda chose us.  I realized that it doesn’t matter how many books you read or how much research you think you have done to prepare yourself mentally, it is never enough.  Being here is an experience that is nearly impossible to write about.  It is an experience that you have to…. Experience.

MY FIRST MOTO RIDE

The beginning of the back-posts....
This is from the beginning of the trip. 

MY FIRST MOTO EXPERIENCE!

So I definitely underestimated the entire moto taxi driver situation here in Rwanda!  It is great!  They are usually cheaper (have to be careful or they try to rip you off by stating a muzunga price/white person price).  However, they are fun and fairly safe.  Overall, a much better option than trying to walk/taxi everywhere. 

Understanding a bit of the language is definitely important. 

Muraho = Hello

Nangahe (non-gah-hay) = How much?

Urahenda (ooh-rah-hane-duh) = That service is too much

Rimwe, Kabiri, Gatatu, Kane = one, two, three, four (ALWAYS follow this with using your fingers to clarify).

Most important, clarify the price prior to getting a helmet or getting on.  Don't be afraid to say too much and walk away.  Motos appear everywhere so it is hard to be without a lower offer.

Getting on and off can be difficult at first.  Where do you hold on/grab?? You’ll learn.  Be careful not to throw the guy off balance…. If he thinks you are a pro he won’t steady the bike as you jump aboard which spells disaster for a beginner.

Also, what about falling off while he is driving?? Well, I was a total foreigner since I was nervous the first few times and held on directly to the man’s stomach.  Honestly I held on for dear life since I was so dang scared!  Now, it is much easier to just hold onto the back handle or something. 

Payment: Always keep those pesky 100RWF!! They come in handy for moto drives since drivers tend to either have zero change OR they pretend not to hoping for you to be aggravated and just say forget it and not wait for change.  It’s annoying, but total worth thinking about. 

Most of all…. Have fun J

I’m trying to include a video of my first moto experience…. A very very very short ride.  Hopefully it uploads!  It was not busy out so it wasn’t exciting at all.  Now since I moto everywhere I should probably take a better video.  We’ll see; maybe in a later post.  Enjoy!

I know it has been forever....

Ahhh!  I'm so sorry I haven't been able to post in so long!  Internet here is an iffy situation.  I've been out of the capitol for a little bit and also just haven't had access (or time) following that return to Kigali.  However, I have been keeping detailed journals so later tonight/tomorrow I will hopefully be able to upload these and (fingers crossed) include pictures!  Everything is so unique and beautiful.... I hate not being able to share it with my family and friends until after I get back to the States!

Ok so it has definitely been an interesting couple of weeks.  I'll just let you know what yesterday evening and today were like though (for now).  Yesterday after work we had holiday time.  Today is our first day off.  Instead of going out of town with most of the delegates last night, I decided to stay in Kigali with a few others.  I knew I needed to get some work done for school and to be honest after all of the traveling lately, I simply couldn't handle much more.  Everyone is getting back tonight though so I'm glad I stayed.  Last evening I came to Bourbon Coffee (close to my guesthouse) on a moto bike taxi to relax on the internet and try to catch up on FB, emails, and of course .... news.  I didn't get a ton done, but it was nice to veg out in front of my laptop with my ipod in one ear and have random convos with strangers who came in and out of the cafe.  

When I finally got home, my friend Joelle said to come by her room to hang out.  I figured she would have already left to go out by then, but I caught her before she headed out.  Vincent (one of the Rwandan delegates; also one of my partners for my volunteer work at the orphanage Peace Village) was with her.  We hung out for a little while and finally they convinced me to come out dancing with them.  Dancing is definitely the thing to do here.  I have only went once since being here, but it is so fun!  Vincent, our friend James, Joelle and I went to Cadillac Club and of course I wanted to learn to dance that old-school tribal stuff that the boys were doing.... epic failure on my part.  They kind of said I was doing it right, but I am definitely a muzunga!! (white girl!) Oh well I've included a pic of Vincent trying to teach me and me looking completely lost.  It is a priceless picture in my opinion.  I did get a compliment (not last night, but the first time I went dancing) by some people.  I was told I "dance like a black girl..... a real Rwandan black girl!" haha And yes, this is exactly what was told to me.  They are nuts.  Dancing isn't really my thing.

After getting home I fell asleep eating a couple of Pringles that I had found at the super marche earlier in the day.  They were definitely worth the 1800 RWF that I paid.  Interesting how something as simple as a can of Pringles can make life seem so much better!  I vow to never eat rice or "meat stew sauce" again once I return home.  We had gotten new rooms yesterday after we finally returned to St. Paul's guesthouse so Christina and I are now rooming together.  We are all a lot closer to each other now compared to before when everyone's rooms were pretty scattered across the compound.  I definitely missed having my own bed, even if it is a tiny little twin with a mattress that sinks close to the floor!  

This morning I got up fairly early and moto'd out across town to Kimironko (pronounced Chimirrongo) to explore the market.  Funny story.... my moto ran out of gas on the way.  I got off and he was like pointing to the gas gauge and shrugging his shoulders.  I was stunned.  He then proceeded to hold out his hand for payment!  I am so happy I happened to remember enough Kinyarwandan to get me by at this point.  I firmly explained that Kimihurera WAS NOT Kimironko and I was not going to pay him anything.  There is kind of a saying here about any time you need a moto, one (or 1,000) will magically appear.... so true.  Somehow, another moto just randomly pulled up and I jumped on the back screaming Murakoze, Murakoze! (thank you, thank you) to the dumb driver who let his bike run out of gas as me and my new driver were speeding away.  haha I don't even feel bad about it either!  This was not his first rodeo... he should have known better than to take a customer when he was on empty considering how far away we were going.  Don't worry mom.... completely safe!  Promise :)

The market was pretty low key, although I definitely heard the words "Muzunga" or "Sista" yelled at me a million times trying to get my attention.  I got a lot of stuff actually.  Awesome prices for everything since I am pretty decent at that whole bargaining thing.  I also got a little fabric (purple and cream) to have a skirt tailored for me.  I recommend to anyone traveling: get something made!  It will probably be one of my favorite souvenoirs.  I was pretty excited about my two bags of purchases until I realized I had to moto back!  Holding on to paper sacks while also holding on to the back of the moto seat is.... an interesting experiences.  I made it though!  I met Joelle and Krista at Bourbon Coffee at the UTC and had lunch.  We had talked about maybe swimming at the Milles Collines (most would know this hotel as the one featured in the movie Hotel Rwanda).  However, we decided to head over to the Serena, easily rated the highest class and most expensive hotel in Kigali.  I mean after all, it is our day off!

Joelle and I decided to treat ourselves to the spa.  I splurged some of my souvenoir money on the treatments.  We both got these amazing ginger scrubs and we each got a swedish massage.  I have never felt better!  Afterwards, I took the longest shower ever and I am sure that I washed my hair like three times.  It was amazing to shower somewhere without shower shoes, a place that had actual water pressure and HOT water.  It also had a shower head above instead of me having to bend below a faucet!  Great time.  Afterwards we met Krista outside by the pool for a bit.  Apparently if you don't room there it costs US$20 just to be out there!  I left early and headed back to get my laundry and fun stuff like that.  I don't feel dirty yet which is a complete miracle.  I'm sitting at Bourbon and am very very very thankful for a great internet connection.  I also ordered a piece of chocolate cake with a scoop of ice cream.... I wasn't ever brought any ice cream (typical) but they did decorate the plate!  Too bad it tasted like dirt and only ate about one bite.  Nice idea though.  Hopefully headed to Papyrus (restaurant/dance club) later with everyone if they get back in time!  More info and back-posts to come. 

Morning off tomorrow and then headed to the Nyamata Church Memorial in the afternoon.  It is going to be an intense afternoon.... It is still so hard to imagine that this beautiful country was in such disarray only a short 17 years ago. To think these hills and churches and streets were filled with bodies of those slain still puts knots in my stomach.  However, if I have learned nothing else while here, I have learned that reconciliation and forgiveness are possible.  The resilience of the Rwandan people is remarkable; and to all of my new friends, I admire you more than you may ever know.